I've measured myself in a variety of different ways - above bust vs full bust, full bust vs under bust, and finally the bottom cup depth *find more on that here*.
Interestingly, the bottom cup depth measurement makes it really clear which cup sizes are 'sister sizes', and therefore a lot more clear how to go up or down in cup volume.
|34DDD - Very Preliminary Muslin|
My bottom cup depth is right between 4.5 inches and 4.75 inches, so I'm currently fiddling around trying to decide whether to make a 32DDD or a 34DDD, both would need band alterations to bring the band up to a 36, but this is the closest I've been able to come cup-size wise (Orange Lingerie defines their DDD as an F on their website).
I also have more volume in my lower cup, so the 32DDD might be just right. I'm going to make 2 tester bras to see which is closest, and I'll go with whichever one is not too small.
I would much prefer to cut a bra with a band size that was drafted bigger and cup size that was drafted smaller, but I bought the large size of Boylston (and Marlborough, argh!!), so I'm working with what I've got.
I also purchased the Bra Making Construction and Fit Craftsy class, which has been worth its weight in gold. Not just for alterations and measuring, but super useful things like how to put in the underwire - hint: the process is simpler than I'd ever imagined and I definitely would have screwed it up had I not watched this class. There are so many things I didn't have a clue about, even with reading as much as I could about bra making.
I'm still wrestling the Orange Lingerie Boylston. Fortunately the Boylston and Marlborough have the same band and cradle, so if I can get that part right, I'm well on my way to making a Marlborough bra next.
I placed my first order with Bra Maker's Supply in Ontario last night before bed, hoping that I'd have a chance of it being shipped out today so it could reach me before the upcoming long weekend, but we'll see.
|32DDD - forgive the super crappy pic|
The 34DDD definitely has more cup volume than I need, so I moved on and made a muslin of the 32DDD, which is actually perfect (cup volume wise), so I guess my BCD is closer to 4.5" than 4.75"!
Now I'm just awaiting proper supplies so I can actually make my real muslin, instead of just 'ballpark' muslins. LOL!
My RTW size (professionally fit, reputable brands) is 36G, which I am definitely NOT in the Orange Lingerie patterns. Interestingly, this is also my size if I go by the under bust/full bust measurement.
Needless to say, I have much respect for the Bottom Cup Depth way of measuring.