Saturday, August 19, 2017

Cropped Kalle Shirt - Closet Case

I have to say, I was in way over my head on this one. I do like a challenge though, and all in all I enjoyed making the cropped version (view A) of Closet Case's Kalle Shirt.

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Fabric
Lightweight Cotton Sateen that was given to me by my FIL's cousin.  This isn't a print or colour scheme I would have picked for myself, but there's something about it I really do love with this pattern.

I think it is the scale of the oversized print with the cropped shirt that I like.  The colours really don't look good on me though.


Pattern
Kalle Shirt + Dress (View A) by Closet Case Patterns
Cut size 16
Hidden placket, band collar



Resources

Closet Case Kalle Sew Along
Instruction that came with the pattern

Mods
2 inch Full Bust Adjustment (FBA), without darts (as shown in the Kalle Sew Along here).
1 inch added to the armscye (1/2" added to each the front and back pieces, as well as the sleeve facing pieces).

Challenges
The FBA I did ended up adding length to the front piece (not sure if I screwed it up or if it is supposed to be like this, online tutorials seem mixed on this), and I didn't add any length to the front facing or the hidden placket, so both were too short.

I ended up chopping off the extra length from the front, which solved both issues.


The FBA also added width to the shirt (obvs), so I needed to add that amount of width to the front facing pieces, because they ended up being too short and not leaving me with anything to fold back over towards the button band for a finished edge.

I ended up sewing on an 'extension' to the front facings with a very small seam allowance and folding that back into the shirt to finish the edge. It looks totally fine and you really can't tell.

Even after getting everything matched up width and lengthwise, sewing on the facings at the bottom of the shirt was a gigantic pain in the butt.  So fiddly!

...and I totally sewed on the sleeve facings on the wrong way. The short side ended up at the back. This is definitely a case of not sewing when you're tired.  I swear I checked!


Future
I will be adding extra length to the drop at the side seam of the front facing so it meets up with where the shirt ends.  Edit:  Once I started altering the pattern pieces for "next time", I realized that I actually needed to shorten the back facing piece and just re-draw the marking dots on the front and back to line up with the marking dot on the front facing piece (after I moved the front facing piece to line up with the bottom front of the shirt).

If I had increased the length of the front facing so it extended up to meed with the back facing piece, it would have removed almost all of the side seam from the front piece and things wouldn't have lined up properly.

I will add 5/8" to the center front of the front facings so I have something to fold over for the finished edge.

I'll also need to add length to the placket so it reaches the bottom of the front of the shirt.

These were total n00b issues that I should have caught in the tissue adjustment phase of this pattern.

Finished Make
Despite the challenges, mistakes and fabric not being my colour preference, I actually really REALLY like this shirt!

The large print with the crop, the fun shape, new skills and successful troubleshooting make this a total win for me.  I'm actually a bit hesitant to make it again, since I'm so happy with this one.

My husband took one look at it and said he couldn't get past the 'ugly fabric' to make a fit judgement and was surprised I deemed it a success.  Whaaaaaa???????  Thanks buddy.  Those are 'encouraging a trip to the fabric store' words.  $$$$

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