Monday, July 30, 2018

Make Nine 2018 // Mid-Year Update

Back in December 2017 I put together a 2018 Make Nine list of patterns I planned to complete over the course of 2018.

I thought it would be useful to revisit that list and make some changes now that we're more than half way through 2018.

Here's my original #2018makenine:


Top (left to right): Halifax by Hey June Handmade, Sweet Tee by Patterns for Pirates, Kelly Anorak by Closet Case Patterns

Middle (left to right): Sweet Tee (long sleeved version) by Patterns for Pirates, Brassie Joggers by Greenstyle Creations, Mama Nina Dress by Made for Mermaids

Bottom (left to right): Ames Jeans by Cashmerette, Appleton Dress by Cashmerette, Concord Tee by Cashmerette.

I did make a couple of Halifax sweatshirts, and wore them to the point that I probably need to make myself a couple more for this upcoming fall/winter season.  I think I made 7 in total...


I sewed almost the entire Kelly Anorak, before chucking the whole project. It wasn't coming together nicely (I found the directions confusing), there were approximately a billion pattern pieces, and my fabric choice was poor. I found a very similar jacket at the GAP outlet for $35, and would probably buy that instead of trying the Kelly Anorak again in the near future.

...and that's it (from this list anyway). I haven't even touched the rest of the list! I did make a Concord Tee last year, and would make it again, but it's not a super high priority for me.


I would still like to make the Ames Jeans and the Sweet Tee, but the Appleton dress is basically off my list for now - maybe to be re-added next year, since I do have the perfect fabric for it, as is the Mama Nina Dress.


I should have put a few different patterns on my list! My main wardrobe builders that I've sewn this year have been the Sabrina Slims by Love Notions - I've made 4 pairs and actually wear them out of the house (black ponte x 2, navy ponte, and floral stretch velvet - I LOVE the floral stretch velvet version, and went back for 6 (SIX!!!!) more meters of this fabric once I sewed the pants - don't judge, it was super on sale!), the Webster Top by Cashmerette (I've made 2 of these), a Lane Raglan by Hey June, the Southport Dress pattern by True Bias (2 short versions, 1 maxi dress, and a tank top hack), and a Kalle Dress by Closet Case Patterns.


Lane Raglan with cotton lycra body and velvet flocked double brushed poly sleeves

One of the things I've really become aware of this year is planning a coordinated wardrobe that I'll actually wear. This means shapes I'm comfortable in and fabrics and colours that feel 'me'.  It may be boring, but I'm wearing my 'me mades'.  Blues, grey, black, white, single pops of colour, large print florals, stripes, polka dots, natural fabrics (read: no/extremely limited polyester) since I run hot and polyester just doesn't feel good.

I actually donated a polyester crepe Springfield top to the thrift store, because it just didn't feel good - and was static-y as all get out.


I've learned that for the most part, I'm not a big fan of sewing t-shirts when I can buy decent fitting 100% cotton tee's at the GAP outlet for $10 on sale. I'm hard on my t-shirts, and even the handmade ones don't last me an exceptionally long time. Life with kids is messy. And I'm still fighting with my coverstitch machine.

I've also learned that making my own leggings is worth every penny and every second not to have to be pulling them up all day. It's nice to feel like there's enough fabric at the back of my pants.


Through last fall and winter, my handmade wardrobe was at about 90%. The only things I wore that I didn't make were undergarments and occasionally my ready to wear puffy vest (I used up all my 'vest patience' sewing one for my preschooler (which fit well, he liked, but refused to wear) -

Trailblazer Vest by Twig and Tale

I lived in my Patterns for Pirates Peg Legs leggings, Hey June Handmade Halifax Hoodies, and various Union St. Tee's, also by Hey June (I never did get a good fit on tee's though).  Occasionally I'd dress things up with a Patterns for Pirates Cocoon Cardi in a sweater knit.

I've made more garments in the last year than I can even count (or remember), and I think that the Make Nine challenge has really helped me keep going and thinking about useful wardrobe items throughout the year, even if I didn't stick to the list.

With that being said, I have tried out way more than 9 patterns already, but would like to make a new Make Nine for the second half of 2018. I'm counting the Southport dress, since I made it in the second half of the year. Anything from July forward.


Top (left to right): Sweet Tee by Patterns for Pirates, Southport Dress by True Bias, Ogden Cami by True Bias

Middle (left to right): Sasha Trousers by Closet Case Patterns, Sointu Kimono Tee by Named Patterns, Lander Shorts by True Bias

Bottom (left to right):  Charlie Caftan View A by Closet Case Patterns, Carolyn Pyjamas by Closet Case Patterns, Arenite Pants by Sew Liberated

The Sweet Tee is on my list because I've had some black and white striped cotton bamboo pre-washed and sitting on top of my dryer since January and I want to make something with it!

The Charlie Caftan is up next - I have the fabric waiting to be pre-washed, followed by the Lander Shorts (I am just waiting on the fabric in the mail).  These two are top priority because I'd really like to be able to wear them through August this year.  Everything else (oh except the Carolyn PJ's which I might make with long pants if I don't get to them before September) is a fall/winter wardrobe builder.

Not on the list is another Patterns for Pirates Cocoon Cardi in black and/or dark grey. This is something that is definitely missing from my fall/winter wardrobe, but I didn't want to add it to my list yet, because I don't have fabric for it, and would like to sew up the patterns I have fabric for before I purchase any more.

I will post my finished projects as I go, and I look forward to a full re-cap at the end of  2018.

Friday, July 27, 2018

Southport Dress // View A // The Maxi

Having made two previous Southport dresses here and here (both the shorter View A), and a Southport Top hack, I made a few more tweaks, and jumped in to my first maxi dress!


I probably should have stopped at my last Southport, as I was really not into sewing this one. Not because it's not a great pattern, but because it's basically the fourth one I've sewn in 2 weeks.  I am certain I will make more in the future, but for now I'm going to take a little break and try out some other patterns for a while. 


I definitely wouldn't hesitate to purchase more patterns from True Bias. The designs are cute and the instructions clear and well written. I have the Ogden Cami and Lander Pants on my upcoming "to sew" list. I'm actually planning a shorts version of the Lander pants with some stonewashed blue tencel twill I ordered in the Blackbird Fabrics sale. I'm hoping to get started as soon as the fabric arrives, so hopefully I can wear them for the rest of the summer, but that's a blog post for another day...let's get on with my Southport Maxi Dress experience...


Pattern
Southport Dress by True Bias.

Version
View B.

Description
Maxi length dress with center front slit.

Size
16 at shoulders and bust, graded to 18 at waist/hips.


Alterations
3/4 of an inch removed from bodice length
1 inch full bust adjustment
1 inch swayback adjustment
Front bodice cut on fold to omit buttons and button band
No pockets

I left the skirt at full length, because I wasn't totally sure where it was going to hit me on my waist, and I didn't want to reduce the length too much and end up with a too-short maxi dress.



Once I was finished with everything but the hemming, I pinned the bottom of the dress up to where I wanted it to be, and then pressed that edge. I then trimmed and pressed under the raw edge and top stitched it down, so I actually have a bit of a wider hem. It's fine for this time, but I'll do it 'properly' next time by reducing length at the lengthen/shorten line.

Fabric
Mystery fabric. It is either cotton or rayon, but inconclusive as to which one, even after the burn test.  The softness, drape, and a bit of sheen make me lean towards rayon.  As does the way in handles.  This fabric was purchased from the thrift store, and was about 4.5 meters long, 44 inches wide.  I do know it is from Cranston Print Works in Texas.  It was a fantastic thrift store find!


Thoughts
I'm going to shave a quarter inch off the width of each of the side of the bodice (at the bottom only). I had trouble attaching the bodice to the skirt, because it seemed like there was just too much fabric at the bottom of the bodice. I think I might have messed with it when I re-added an inch to the length of the bodice pieces, but I didn't intentionally add width, so I'm not totally sure what happened there.


Speaking of the length of the bodice, it is juuuuuuuust right! I think what had happened was that I determined the length of the bodice with the bodice piece only, and with no cinching of the waistband, but when skirt is on and the waistband is cinched, it seemed to reduce the length of the bodice by a bit. 

Even with this version, un-cinched, it seems like the bodice is a little long, but as soon as I cinch it, it's just the right length. Interesting, huh? 

On my last version of the Southport, even cinched, the back seemed to be the right length, so I did the 1 inch swayback adjustment to keep the back the previous length while adding length in the front. This worked like magic!


For the swayback adjustment, I started off by pinching out the length at the center back, but it left everything a bit wavy, so I went off in search of other techniques for swayback adjustments, and came across a ton of info.


I ended up using Glenda's technique where you just basically take the length off the bottom and grade out so you don't lose length off the sides. More info here.

I also stumbled upon a REALLY helpful YouTube channel for fitting by Alexandra Morgan of In House Patterns.  She walks you through 3 different ways to do the swayback adjustment, including one that's technique is reminiscent of a full bust adjustment, or other similar fitting technique where you slice along lines and leave hinges.


Next time, for the skirt of the maxi dress I will just shave off 2 inches from the skirt length at the lengthen shorten line.  The dress is just the right length now, and I chopped off two inches from the bottom before hemming and it just grazes the ground when I'm wearing flip flops. I'd say it's my ideal maxi dress length.

I had mentioned before that I was having problems with the front of the neckline leaning forwards (away from my body) when I wore it, but it was just at the very edge. I think I had been doing my stay stitching too close to the edge of the fabric and it wasn't doing its job when it came to applying the bias binding. This time, I took care to keep the stay stitching closer to where the stitching line would be and I think it helped.


I actually cut the pocket pieces and at the last minute decided to leave them off. I really didn't want the added bulk at the hips, but even just taking the pictures of the finished dress had me regretting that decision.  I missed having a quick temporary spot for my phone (aka my camera remote) while I wrangled my camera and my super heavy tripod.  Will I put them on next time? I don't know, maybe? Darn that extra volume the the hips from pockets!

Tuesday, July 24, 2018

Closet Case Kalle Shirt Dress // Rayon + Linen Stripe

Last summer, I made the cropped version - View A -  of the Closet Case Kalle Shirt + Dress twice, and this summer I've decided to give View C - the dress - a try.


This was one of the last patterns I printed at home and taped together, and since it's been sitting rolled up for the better part of the last year, it was not fun to trace off of at all. The tape was starting to come undone, the paper was wrinkled and crinkled. Ugh. If I decided to ever trace this pattern again for any reason, I'm going to get the large format version printed and recycle the current paper mess I'm working with. Update: later in the day I was at the print shop to have a few other patterns printed, and decided to have them print Kalle for me too, just in case.


I cut the size 18 and because it has quite a bit of wearing ease, I've also opted not to do a full bust adjustment.  I did the FBA on the cropped version, and it was a gigantic pain in the butt to do without darts.

The fabric I'm using is a 60% rayon / 40% linen I bought from Fabricana in Richmond, BC in the spring. I thought I had 2 meters - needed 2.75 meters for the dress - but thought I might be able to overcome the lack of fabric with some creative cutting and shortening the length a bit, since I'm only 5'4".  I didn't end up doing this because it turned out I only had 1.5 meters of fabric, and I was able to find more at Blackbird Fabrics.  I was able to cut all the pieces out from the original 1.5 meters of fabric, minus the back piece. The back piece is just over a meter long, which meant I had to order another 1.5 meters of this fabric, since Blackbird Fabrics sells in .5 meter increments.


While I waited for the new batch of fabric to arrive, I was able to interface the pieces that needed interfacing, attach the button placket, and sew together part of the collar. I used the Kalle Sew Along that Closet Case did for this pattern.

Once the button placket is attached to the right side of the dress it gets pressed and then the raw edge is pressed over by a little bit to conceal the original seam from sewing on the placket.  I wish I had pressed the button placket in the final fold over amount before I sewed it on.  I seem to remember pressing before attaching on the last one I made. It was just a bit tricky to get it folded over that small amount after having it attached to the rest of the right front.  I think I could have gotten it more even if I had pressed before. That being said, it's hardly noticeable and on the inside.


This fabric was really tricky to cut and and keep from pulling off the straight of grain because it is so fluid.  I'm having to do lots of pinning to keep the stripes lining up. I'm glad to have the stripes though, because they help me keep everything straight and make it really clear when something is pulled out of shape a little bit.


Unfortunately, my collar pieces look a little wonky from not being completely perfectly cut, due to the fabric pulling off the straight of grain. They're not too far off, but in hindsight I probably should not have cut them on the fold with this fabric.


Once the new fabric arrived, I got busy cutting out the back piece and attaching the yoke. The fabric really doesn't have a right side and wrong side, which led to a bit of a comedy of errors. I sewed the yoke on the wrong way 3 times before I got it right!  Especially embarrassing since I've done this part on my two previous Kalle's.

It was a combination of not having a right and wrong side and also that previously I'd done a box pleat, and this time I did an inverted box pleat, so to me, the wrong side really looked like the right side!


Despite having done them twice before, I also struggled with the sleeve bands...I just couldn't get them to be a mirror image...even cut another set of front and back pieces...on my second time of ripping out the stitches, I realized I just needed to flip it around after it'd been sewn.  Face palm.  Apparently I have reaped no benefit from having made this in shirt form before. lol.

When I attached the sleeves, I pressed the inside edge down before sewing the sleeve bands on.  After I sewed on the bands, I used wash away wonder tape to make sure the folded inside edge was just on the seam line. It held brilliantly!


The bias binding on the hem worked like a charm. It was easy to apply and gives such a nice polished finish. 

The collar was easy to put on, using the Kalle Sewalong from Closet Case. It was one of the easiest things about the whole dress.  The effort to results ratio is very good with this collar. Low effort, extremely high results.


The buttonholes seemed to take forever, even after I figured out how I wanted to mark them without permanently staining my fabric - previous blog post here.

NINE BUTTONHOLES. NINE.  I don't breathe when I make buttonholes, so they seemed to take extra long. I had good results though.  I used 12mm buttons (that's half an inch) and 15 mm buttonholes (that's an extra 1/8" total). I would not have wanted the buttonholes any longer.

For the buttonhole placement, I used the buttonhole guide from the pattern, and marked the top of each buttonhole according to that, then marked the bottom of the buttonhole 15 mm down, to make it the length I wanted the buttonhole to be.


I used my sewing machine to sew on the buttons, but I was at a bit of a loss to figure out how to keep the button in place in the right spot.  I closed the button band, placed a pin in the middle, opened the button band, then put a teeny tiny square of wash away wonder tape right in the middle of where the pinpoint had been.  I put the button on the wonder tape, and it held well.  I had no problems sewing the buttons on in the exact spot I had intended.

After sewing on all the buttons, I used a hand sewing needle to bring any threads that remained at the front of the button through the holes and to the back.  Once each button had all the threads at the back, I tied a couple of knots at the back of the button to secure the threads a little better, and gave it a dab of Fray Check. 


Overall Impressions
First, I think the fabric choice really made this project. It's drapey and floaty, and the stripes are fun. The neutral grey/cream combo adds a bit more of a 'grown up' feeling to it.  The linen and rayon make it cool and a pleasure to wear. 


No matter how nice it is to wear, subjectively it really is not very flattering.  It's wide, boxy, shapeless, and the shapelessness can't be overcome by conforming to my own curves, because it is so wide.  It doesn't really touch me at all!

That being said, I think due to the fabric content, I do feel really good in this. Hopefully some of my confidence of feeling good outshines some of the boxyness.


Looking at versions of the Kalle that other people have made, I think that shortening it so the front comes above the knee would help with it being a little more flattering - so a couple of inches. This makes sense, since I am 5'4" and the pattern is drafted for those who are 5'6". 

I would also like to make a blouse length Kalle with a straight, or at lease straighter, hem. 

Even with all those buttons, I'd like to make it again.

Thoughts on Marking Buttonhole Placement

I had mentioned previously that I had decided to start using a new technique to mark my buttonhole placement. I had drawn a vertical line down the length of the button band with my Clover Chaco Liner, and had placed pins in the side of the button band to denote the length.


This works great with the white Chaco Liner, which I can actually get off the fabric, but when I'm using white or almost white fabric, I can't use my white Chaco Liner. I have to use my blue Chaco Liner.  The blue one is okay for marking things on the inside of a garment that will never be seen, but I find I can NEVER truly get the blue out.

It turns the thread blue where the stitches have gone through the marking, and that blue mark it there seemingly forever.  Washing with soap doesn't seem to make a difference, brushing, wiping with a dry cloth, wiping with a wet cloth, nothing seems to remove it for me. I even tried a Magic Eraser at the suggestion of one blog comment I found.

I decided to test on my current project -


And nope, even after brushing off and and then washing with soap in cool water, it is still there.  And the thread for the buttonhole is now blue.

So I Googled. And read. And Googled a little more...

marking for buttonhole placement using only thread and pins

Finally, in the comments section of one blog post on using 1/4" quilters tape to mark (which also seems like a good idea), was the suggestion to machine thread-baste a straight line down the middle of the button band and then mark with pins for the top and bottom of each button hole. Perfect!

For the very top button on the shirt dress, I ran a short line of stitches down the middle of the first little bit of the collar stand as a guide for that button (pins marking the length of that button hole).

This process worked well for me, and using my machine's basting stitch setting made it really easy to get the row of basted stitches out after I had completed the buttonholes.

Monday, July 23, 2018

July 20, 2018 // Weekend Adventures

It's a laundry and coffee kinda Monday!  We've been loosening up on the routine, and trying to seize the day this summer. We're having lots of fun, but man are we tired! No naps, late bedtimes, lots of fresh air. Summer.

We were out of the house on Friday morning at 8:00am, to drive to Aldergrove and visit the Krause Berry Farm. It was the opening day of blackberry picking and we wanted to get there when they opened (or close to it) at 8:30am.  They have thornless blackberries, which make it a super kid friendly activity. We picked 4 baskets before loading them into the car and preparing to take the shuttle bus to the blueberry fields.


The kids really wanted to ride the shuttle bus, otherwise we probably would have skipped the blueberries, but I'm so glad we didn't because they were really perfect and sooooo delicious!  We picked 3 baskets before heading back to catch the shuttle bus back to the main farm.


Lunch was our last stop before leaving the farm, and it was very much not delicious - well, the pie was - but otherwise we'll likely give it a pass next time. They also didn't "a la mode" my pie which was on the receipt, and seemed to accuse me of not telling the truth about not getting ice cream, despite walking to my table, realizing it and returning right away.  Also, they gave us a smoothie not a milkshake as ordered and as on the receipt, and it was the sourest most terrible thing I've ever tasted. We each had a sip and then threw the rest in the garbage.  I hear their waffles are good though, so maybe we'll give them a try next time before writing this off as a place to eat.

I'd definitely recommend them for berry picking! The staff were really friendly and helpful, the had lots of baskets and wagons available and they moved people through the line really quickly. 

We got stuck in major Friday afternoon traffic (with help from several accidents and road construction), and ended up with less than an hour at home before heading out to meet friends at the playground for a couple of hours before dinner. 

Stu took the kids to the Boundary Bay Airshow on Saturday after swimming lessons, while I stayed home for a day of sewing (4+ uninterrupted hours!).  I was trying to make some real progress on my Kalle dress by Closet Case, which I did. Sort of.

Saturday progress - sleeve cuffs and buttonholes / buttons to go!

My sewing was riddled with folly. I sewed the yoke on improperly 3 times before finally sewing it on the right way, and I had trouble with the sleeve cuffs - even cutting a new piece - before remembering I could just flip the piece the other way around after sewing to make it a mirror image.  Major face palm for having made this pattern in shirt form twice before, and having done these exact steps before!

I remember having trouble sewing the yoke properly with my first Kalle while following the sewalong instructions. I went back to the actual pattern instructions and it was much more straightforward for me.

After all that sewing and ripping, I finally got to sew on the collar - which went great! It looks like a real shirt dress!  Then the bias binding for the hem, which I loved. What a great way to finish the bottom of a dress - especially with a pronounced curve. Way more enjoyable to make than the View A with a hem facing. That was terrible. I'm still not over it and that was a year ago.  The fabric held up fantastically well to all the seam ripping.

Love these tags that Blackbird Fabrics affixes to the fabric they send out! 

Sunday morning I woke up early and attached the sleeve cuffs (which filled me with dread - and I sewed them on backwards one year ago).  This time it was one of the easiest things about the dress.  I've sewed on what seems like a bazillion sleeve cuffs and neck bindings in the last year.

All that was left was button holes! But, I needed to choose some buttons first.  I didn't want to make the long trek to the fabric store as my only stop, so we loaded up the kids and went for a bike ride at Terra Nova in Richmond. We used to walk/run out here all the time when we lived in Vancouver, but I think we've only been out once since J was born. 

It has a great gravel path, but is a bit tricky for little kids to pedal through the gravel. I think we'll ditch the bikes in favour of a good walk/run next time.


After our ride, we headed to Fabricana for some buttons. Stu and the kids waited outside and had a snack while I ran in. It took surprisingly little time to find some good options, but in the end I couldn't decide and came out with three different sets of buttons.  They're nice neutral buttons, so I figured I'd have no problem using them on future projects.

the light grey in the middle are the clear winner!

I didn't buy any fabric at Fabricana - which took all my willpower - because I had placed another order with Blackbird Fabrics earlier that morning, since they were having a 20% off sale.  I ordered more of the linen/rayon fabric I'm using for my Kalle...6 meters of it...I think I'm in love!  I want to make the Carolyn PJ's from Closet Case in the short sleeves / shorts version.  Summer pj's!! Also, another dress probably...or maybe shorts? I don't know...maybe all of the above.

After this we headed home for pancakes and fruit (and a little whipped cream) for a delicious lunch -


After lunch we were off to my aunt and uncle's beach house for a swim and a barbecue.  There was yet another accident on the road in front of us, which added 30 minutes to our 20 minute drive.  I was glad to have my knitting with me.

I've seriously upgraded my car knitting situation by adding one of those vent clip phone holders - I'm really happy with mine (I am not affiliated with them, nor is this an affiliate link - I just like this one that I bought, and I had trouble deciding on a good one when I was looking), it hasn't dropped my iPhone 7 Plus even on bumpy roads - and I found a new spot to hold my yarn in the door shelf.  I'm still working away on my Portrush Poncho, having just joined the neck together and now I'm working on the main body section. The linen yarn I'm using (Louet Euroflax) has been such a treat to work with in the warm weather, and surprisingly hasn't been hard on my hands at all.


It was quite a hot day yesterday, and we all had fun paddling and swimming once we got down to the beach. Except E, she wasn't really into the water stuff - she mostly shadowed my aunt and uncle on dry land.  She did partake in enough paddling for me to take a picture though -


The barbecue was fantastic! Food always seems to taste better near the ocean. Even a hotdog can turn into the best tasting thing you've ever eaten! Or maybe that's just me? I'll take it!  Though that's not what we had. We had two types of kebabs, zooghetti (zucchini spaghetti stuff - it was yummy despite my poor description of it) and fresh dungeness crab.  Amazing day!

We stayed to watch the sunset, and didn't get home until almost 10 - which is insanely late for us. It's rare we're out past 5:00pm most nights. 6:00pm is a late night!

Saturday, July 21, 2018

Southport Tank // Linen + Rayon Stripe

I hacked the Southport Dress by True Bias into a top!  True Bias actually has a short tutorial on how to do this, and it is super easy.



After all my success with the Southport Dress View A over the last week or so, I knew I wanted to try to hack this pattern into a top, since I live in shorts and t-shirts in the summer months.



The fabric is a linen / rayon blend - 60% rayon / 40% linen, with a whopping 59" fabric width.  I had originally picked up this fabric from Fabricana in March, but bought more from Blackbird Fabrics last week.



I had to buy 1.5 meters to finish cutting my Kalle Shirt Dress by Closet Case (more on that to come shortly), because the original amount of fabric I had wasn't enough to cut the back of the dress (my fault, I had originally planned to use the fabric for a top).  I needed 1.5 meters, because the length of the dress was more than 1 meter.



Since I only needed to cut the back of the Kalle with the 1.5 meters of fabric, I ended up with quite a bit leftover. I had nearly half the width of the fabric left at the full length, and about .4 meters of the full width of the fabric left.  I was able to just barely cut the front and back pieces of the hacked Southport Top, and matching bias binding (out of that leftover full width section - which at that point was half width from cutting the front and back of the top - if that makes any sense at all).



This top was a bit of a 'double hack' since I omitted the button bands and buttons, and just cut the front piece on the fold.  It is very reminiscent of the Cashmerette Springfield like this, but I think the shoulders fit me a bit better.

I re-traced my previously altered pieces, which had been cut at a size 16 for the shoulders and bust, then graded out to a size 18 at the hips.  I had also done a 1 inch FBA, and reduced the bodice length by 1.75 inches.  This meant that I needed to add 11.5 inches of length to the bodice to make it into a proper top.



In order to do this, I just sliced across the lengthen/shorten line, and slid in a full width piece of tracing paper with one line near the top and another line 11.5 inches below. I taped the original bodice pieces to this piece of tracing paper.

I added 1/4 inch of width to the side seams, which seems to be about right.



This fabric was an absolute dream to work with (after getting past the slidey nature of it while cutting - it was tricky!).  Wearing it feels like wearing a layer of cool air - it doesn't even feel like fabric!  It presses really nicely, and it makes amazing bias binding.

I was surprised that it wasn't a thready unraveling mess while I was working with it, but it really wasn't. It was very well behaved.



I have a dream of making some Closet Case short sleeved pajamas with matching shorts using this fabric. I think that might just be my ideal summer PJ outfit.



The neckline looks just a little floppy at the front of my Southports - all of them - so I'm thinking I might need to stretch the bias binding a little bit as I apply it, in order to keep everything nice and tight.  I'm off to google about that though, because otherwise it seems to fit pretty well.



I wonder also if this might fit better if I went down to a size 14 in the shoulders, FBA'd the difference between the 14 and the 16 + 1 inch as I have here, and then graded that out to the 18 at the hips...I'm nervous to mess up my fabric though, and I really don't have much suitable muslin fabric. I've been trying really hard not to get a fabric stash going.  I might just have to take a look at see if I can find something appropriate though.  I do have a small bin of fabrics to choose from.