Tuesday, July 10, 2018

Cashmerette Webster Top and Love Notions Sabrina Slims

Back in March I bought some nice springy fabrics from Fabricana and due to some super unfortunate life circumstances, I didn't get to sew them up right away, even though I had planned to.  So here we are in July and I'm just getting to them now...

Cashmerette Webster Top

I bought a nice lightweight Japanese 100% cotton lawn floral (by Sevenberry) that I had planned to make into a Cashmerette Springfield (I've made 3 of these before), but I wanted to adjust the sizing and I didn't ever end up getting that particular pattern printed in large format. Side note: getting pdf patterns printed in large format has been one of the best things to happen to my sewing ever.

I wanted to get started on something yesterday, so I opted for the Cashmerette Webster (which I had previously had printed in large format).  I always trace out my patterns - previously on parchment paper, and now on medical supply paper (amazon has it). I like the medical supply paper because it is easy to tape, unlike the parchment paper.

serged edge of front facing piece
I traced the Webster yesterday afternoon, opting for a size 18 in the shoulders and bust and then out to the size 20 for the waist and hips. I wanted something really big and flowey, but I think this might be a big much for most fabrics, and I'll have to evaluate to see if I'd rather just cut an 18 straight down.

The sewing has been pretty time consuming - I think the stay stitching alone took longer than it takes me to sew up a Springfield top, but I'm happy with the results.  Stay stitching is always worth it.  Same with understitching, in my opinion.

When I knit, I'm a process knitter - I don't really care if I ever wear what I make. When I sew, it's a totally different story. I'm not a big fan of the process...I guess I am sometimes, but mainly I'm sewing for the finished garment.  When it's over, I'm glad it's done.

turned under edge of back facing piece

The way I have been getting through the Webster is by telling myself that if I enjoyed the process I'd be really having a great time - and trying to convince myself I'm having a good time. Surprisingly, I think that's actually working to some extent.

I'm using the Cashmerette Webster Sew Along, which makes everything nice and clear, and I've followed all the recommendations, except one - with the facing, she recommends turning it under twice and then stitching it down.  I did this for the two back facing pieces (with the help of some wash away wonder tape), and it seemed a bit bulky, so I just serged the raw facing edge on the front piece. After pressing, the folded version wasn't quite so bulky, so I'm really not sure which one I prefer.  The serging was faster and easier, but the folded one looks more 'finished'.

I also reduced the length of the bust darts by 1" (an alteration I've made to all my Springfields), and lowered it by about 1".  It does hit in a much better spot now.

I had my dh help me with the crisscross alignment, which was a huge help!

For the hem, I turned it under at the same time I stitched it, and then turned it under and stitched it again. This is my 'go-to' for light weight fabric hemming on a shirt.

Final impressions -

My measurements had me at an 18 C/D for the bust and a 20 C/D for the waist, which is why I traced the 18 for the shoulders/bust and graded out to the 20 for the waist/hips.  The shoulders/bust are waaaay too big on me. Like probably 4 inches...For my next top, I will trace a 14 C/D for the shoulders/bust, and grade out to an 18 at the hips. I don't mind the width of the 20 at the hips, but I think the proportions might look better at an 18, and it really isn't that much of a difference anyway.

Interestingly, cutting a 16 C/D in the Springfield, had me really wishing for a little more breathing room, which just goes to show how much more wearing ease the Webster has in comparison.  Although, looking at the finished bust measurements between the two patterns, there really isn't that much of a difference. Hmmm...

Update: I ended up shaving 1 inch off each side (for a total of 4 inches removed), and it fits much better. I will definitely cut a 14 C/D (in the shoulders/bust) next time for my 46" bust.

Love Notions Sabrina Slims

Much earlier this year, (or was it last year?) I participated in a sewalong on Facebook (it must have been last year or really early this year, because I've been off FB for nearly all of 2018), for the Love Notions Sabrina Slims - I think it was in the So Sew English Sew Alongs group.

I made many many muslins trying to get the crotch curve just right, and the slimness of the legs just right.  I actually had really great success and made myself a couple of pairs in black poly blend ponte, and a pair in floral stretch velvet.  The fit and look great, and nobody has asked if I made them. lol.

stretch velvet version

 I wanted to make another pair in a non-poly blend ponte, since the poly blend ponte really doesn't breathe, and the velvet are quite seasonal (and also poly - ugh!!).  Part of my spring fabric haul included some navy ponte in a nylon, rayon, lycra or something blend - no polyester.  I'm hoping this is better in the breathability department.  I haven't been able to find cotton blend ponte locally yet.

black poly blend ponte version - yes they're on inside out

Anyhoo...the reason I bought the navy ponte was to make some Sabrina Slims to go with the Japanese cotton floral I'm using for the Webster top, so I cut out the fabric for that yesterday as well.  It's super quick to cut, since ponte is so hassle free to cut (no rolling), and there aren't too many pieces. It's a small step up from making simple leggings.

navy blue ponte pants (pic below shows better colour)
(it's really difficult to take a picture of the crotch of your pants...)

I had hoped to have enough of the fabric left over to make a pair of shorts too, but I didn't have enough. I had forgotten I'd bought the absolute minimum I thought I could get away with since this particular ponte was about $20 a meter. If I like the pants, I'll go back for more for shorts.

navy ponte Sabrina Slims before hemming

I'm quite happy with the fit of the navy blue ponte version of the Sabrina Slims. One thing I learned from my adventures in ponte last time is that the ponte tends to 'relax' quite a bit within a few minutes of wearing, so while they look a bit tight now, they look like proper pants after not too long.

Now I just need to hem them. I'm trying to decide between 'just above the ankle length' and 'full length'. I would definitely be able to get more use out of these pants at full length, but I do like the ankle length as well...decisions, decisions...

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