Wednesday, July 11, 2018

Cashmerette Webster Top - Version 2

After having to shave a bunch of width off the sides of my first Webster (deets in my last post), I decided to try again and trace a different size. I traced a 14 C/D for the shoulders/bust, and graded out to an 18 C/D for the waist/hips, and kept the length consistent with the larger size too.

I'm using the same 100% cotton lawn Sevenberry Japanese fabric from Fabricana that I used last time, but this one has a white background (instead of navy blue). Here's a link.

I think this top would be much better with some better styling, but we're in a heat wave, and I just can't do it.  I envision this top being worn with my nave blue ponte Sabrina Slims pants by Love Notions, and a navy cardigan (maybe something like the Blackwood Cardigan by Helen's Closet).

I moved the bust dart down my 1 inch on this one, and reduced the length of the bust dart by 1 inch as well.

The above photo angle is a little misleading, but the bust dart could be moved up just a bit from were I moved it...actually with the size 14 C/D, I might be able to move it back to its original position.  For some reason it appears that the dart doesn't go within 1" of the apex of my bust, but it's pretty close in 'real life'.

A shot from the back (love those crisscross straps!) -

I decided to change up my technique for all of that stay stitching. I basically "chain pieced", so I didn't have to cut the thread after the stay stitching on each section. I think it reduced the time and tedium of the process nicely.

It's amazing how much faster this is to sew for the second time, even with having to re-trace the pattern. I'm already dreaming of a dress version...

I think I sewed the crisscross straps at just slightly the wrong angle at the top, and that had them also at slightly the wrong angle at the bottom. I didn't have my husband pin the bottom of the crisscross for me this time, and I used a pin and check method instead. The only problem with this way of doing it is that every time I moved, the crisscross moved too, and I couldn't seem to figure out a way to check the actual placement reliably.

For next time, I need to be more careful about getting the proper angle at the top of the crisscross and have help with the pinning and placement of the bottom of the crisscross. I think I might have sewn the crisscross at the wrong angle for the first version I made of this top too...oh well! It isn't super noticeable when I'm moving around, more so when I'm taking still photographs.

Now that it's all finished, I'm happy to say that I'm quite happy with it. It's just short enough that I can wear it with shorts without there being any question that I am wearing something on my bottom half.  It is a bit more billowy than it needs to be at the bottom though. If my fabric were more drapey, it would work better, but to me, it just looks like there's a bunch of excess fabric around my hips.

I think I'll only grade out to a 16 for the waist/hips next time. I can't believe what a different fit experience I'm having with this shirt vs the Springfield.

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