Saturday, July 21, 2018

Southport Tank // Linen + Rayon Stripe

I hacked the Southport Dress by True Bias into a top!  True Bias actually has a short tutorial on how to do this, and it is super easy.

After all my success with the Southport Dress View A over the last week or so, I knew I wanted to try to hack this pattern into a top, since I live in shorts and t-shirts in the summer months.

The fabric is a linen / rayon blend - 60% rayon / 40% linen, with a whopping 59" fabric width.  I had originally picked up this fabric from Fabricana in March, but bought more from Blackbird Fabrics last week.

I had to buy 1.5 meters to finish cutting my Kalle Shirt Dress by Closet Case (more on that to come shortly), because the original amount of fabric I had wasn't enough to cut the back of the dress (my fault, I had originally planned to use the fabric for a top).  I needed 1.5 meters, because the length of the dress was more than 1 meter.

Since I only needed to cut the back of the Kalle with the 1.5 meters of fabric, I ended up with quite a bit leftover. I had nearly half the width of the fabric left at the full length, and about .4 meters of the full width of the fabric left.  I was able to just barely cut the front and back pieces of the hacked Southport Top, and matching bias binding (out of that leftover full width section - which at that point was half width from cutting the front and back of the top - if that makes any sense at all).

This top was a bit of a 'double hack' since I omitted the button bands and buttons, and just cut the front piece on the fold.  It is very reminiscent of the Cashmerette Springfield like this, but I think the shoulders fit me a bit better.

I re-traced my previously altered pieces, which had been cut at a size 16 for the shoulders and bust, then graded out to a size 18 at the hips.  I had also done a 1 inch FBA, and reduced the bodice length by 1.75 inches.  This meant that I needed to add 11.5 inches of length to the bodice to make it into a proper top.

In order to do this, I just sliced across the lengthen/shorten line, and slid in a full width piece of tracing paper with one line near the top and another line 11.5 inches below. I taped the original bodice pieces to this piece of tracing paper.

I added 1/4 inch of width to the side seams, which seems to be about right.

This fabric was an absolute dream to work with (after getting past the slidey nature of it while cutting - it was tricky!).  Wearing it feels like wearing a layer of cool air - it doesn't even feel like fabric!  It presses really nicely, and it makes amazing bias binding.

I was surprised that it wasn't a thready unraveling mess while I was working with it, but it really wasn't. It was very well behaved.

I have a dream of making some Closet Case short sleeved pajamas with matching shorts using this fabric. I think that might just be my ideal summer PJ outfit.

The neckline looks just a little floppy at the front of my Southports - all of them - so I'm thinking I might need to stretch the bias binding a little bit as I apply it, in order to keep everything nice and tight.  I'm off to google about that though, because otherwise it seems to fit pretty well.

I wonder also if this might fit better if I went down to a size 14 in the shoulders, FBA'd the difference between the 14 and the 16 + 1 inch as I have here, and then graded that out to the 18 at the hips...I'm nervous to mess up my fabric though, and I really don't have much suitable muslin fabric. I've been trying really hard not to get a fabric stash going.  I might just have to take a look at see if I can find something appropriate though.  I do have a small bin of fabrics to choose from.

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