Thursday, August 8, 2019

Robbie Pants // Tessuti Fabrics


Pattern
Robbie Pants by Tessuti Fabrics


Fabric
Washed Linen (100% linen), black, 2 meters, from Blackbird Fabrics Summer 2019

Robbie Pants Front with Helen's Closet Ashton Top

Size
Large, with modifications. I went with the size large because it would fit my hip measurements perfectly, but I knew I would have to do a bunch of crotch scooping (particularly in the back) and add some width at the tummy/waist. It worked out pretty well to do it this way.

Robbie Pants Back

Modifications

  • Added to front and back crotch depth, small full tummy adjustment, straightened curve of front and back pattern pieces to add a little width, scooped crotch front and back. More significant crotch scoop at back so some length added back at side seam. Not enough though, so I had to take a 1/4" seam allowance for the top 6" instead of 1/2".  Will add a bit more to the pattern piece for next time.
  • Shortened the rise by approximately 2" on both the front and back piece to have it sit just below my natural waist (which is quite high), after the waistband was attached.
  • Moved the pockets towards the center front by 1/2 an inch so I didn't have to start with sewing up the side seams (wanted to use them for more precise fitting at the end)
  • Used the sewing order from the Fremantle Pants and also top stitched the crotch in inseam seams
  • Used the waistband width from the Helen's Closet Donovan Skirt and my own custom length to fit my alterations to the waist.  Also used the 1.5 inch waistband elastic to match
These actually fit great!  The fit both front and back is possibly the best fit I've achieved on a pair of woven pants.